After a heartfelt Christmas spent with the family and a New Year’s Eve spent painfully travelling, Sam and I finally reunited with Grandma, Bappa, and the Teardrop. The next day, on January 2nd, we said our final goodbye to Georgia and the wonderful people we spent time with during our stay.
With boiled peanuts in hand, we set out towards the Florida-Georgia border.
Nothing beats the feeling of the road rolling underneath the Jeep’s tires.
Past the border, we had a lot of exciting things ahead of us. Florida is home to three national parks that we’ve been eager to visit: the Everglades, Biscayne, and Dry Tortugas. Not only were these national parks extremely different than any others we’ve seen so far, but we were going to explore two of them alongside our good friend Josh!
Looks like 2022 is off to a good start.
We had two days to reach Miami and pick Josh up from the airport. Most of that time was spent driving, but we did make sure to stop by a natural spring one morning on our way south.
Despite the chilly morning air, Sam wanted nothing more than to jump right into the spring’s crystal blue water. With one large gulp of coffee to keep me warm, I begrudgingly jumped into the water with him. I actually think I’m getting better at this whole “swimming in cold water” thing, because I only winced instead of screaming.
Obviously we had to break out the floaty tubes (stolen from my gracious mother) and snorkel gear. The morning air did not warm up with the sun, so we ditched the tubes real quick. The snorkels, however, came in handy.
We saw turtles! I forgot to count how many, but those suckers were so dang big and cute. I greatly enjoyed just watching them graze on the underwater algae and grasses. The spring itself was fun to swim above as well; the water that came out from the headspring pushed us every which way, making it difficult to stay in one place.
I greatly recommend spending your morning in a happy place before a long day on the road. Who knows, you might even stumble upon a mermaid convention like we did. I won’t clarify, but please enjoy whatever mental image that gave you.
January 4th, 2022
The day Josh flew in, I found it hard to contain my excitement. It was still hard to believe that we convinced him to fly out all the way to Florida from Colorado. Exploring a new national park with someone and sharing that experience was just so exciting.
Once we reunited with our friend, his induction into our Gap Year Ceremonies began immediately. Grocery shopping. Although necessary, shopping and planning the week’s meals has never been very enjoyable. Thankfully, Josh took up the slack as I sat back and enjoyed the boy’s banter.
The most important food item for Josh is peanut butter. At this point, I wouldn’t be surprised if 90% of all protein in his body was supplied by peanut butter. The bread or apple he ate with said peanut butter served as mere vessels to carry the sacred butter into his stomach.
Getting a normal photo of the two of them is easier said than done.
Ah, there we go.
The boys casually sitting back while waiting for our noodles to cook.
It felt so weird to have a neighbor living across the street from us.
Everglades National Park, Part I
In order to avoid campsite fees, we set up camp an hour and a half outside the west end of the Everglades. Sleeping for free does come with a cost, though; our mornings just got earlier and earlier.
You would think the mosquitoes would be too sleepy to try and suck your blood when the sun hasn’t risen yet, but you’d be wrong. Sam and I woke up in a daze, bleary eyed in the dark. Josh, on the other hand, sprung out of his tent with the manic energy of the Energizer Bunny. Of course, I’m exaggerating, but that’s how it felt to watch the man.
I was often given breakfast duty as the boys puttered about. They made sure the teardrop was secure and the Jeep had everything we needed for the day. I was in charge of sustenance, and I liked it that way. It’s possible to say I got a little too used to the extra pair of hands.
We spent many early morning drives listening to podcasts and sipping coffee, tired but excited for the day ahead.
Our first day of adventures went through a bumpy beginning. We asked a Ranger for suggested kayaking routes and he pointed us to some awesome trails. Eager to get onto the water, we asked more and more questions. Right as he finished detailing how amazing our day would be, another Ranger shared that there were no kayaks available to rent. Ouch.
Josh and Sam were determined to glide through the mangroves, so we spent an hour or so running around town looking for any other rentals. If we wanted, we could have easily gone through another vendor. However, their prices were too steep for these adventurers on a budget.
Alas, we came back empty handed. No kayaking today meant we were at a loss for what to do in the area. I didn’t realize it before coming to the park, but it’s really hard to just hike around and see everything in the Everglades. Some of the most interesting parts of the park are on the water, like the mangrove forests. Unless you want to pay more for an airboat or kayak, there’s only so much you can do to explore the waterways.
All that being said, we definitely found things to do. We stopped by as many trails that time would allow. From boardwalks above the swamp to mosquito ridden dirt trails, we walked around and admired how different life is in this part of the country.
Having Josh with us meant that we had an entirely different brain to pick! It was so interesting watching how excited he was about the various plants we were passing. One of his favorite plants to point out were epiphytes, or air plants. These pretty little guys would live atop the trees, hoisted in the air to be closer to the sunlight. They aren’t even parasitic, like I thought; all the nutrients and moisture they need can be taken from the air and sun. Without Josh, I don’t think I would have given them much of a second thought. Now I can’t help but get excited when I see them.
Fun Fact: The Everglades is essentially one gigantic, slow moving river. Florida can receive an average of 60 inches of rainfall annually, not to mention the many natural springs dotting the landscape. All that water will slowly drain towards the ocean, allowing a diverse array of life to thrive along the way. From alligators and iguanas to manatees and migratory birds, it’s impossible not to spot any wildlife.
The yellow of the water contrasts so nicely with the dark bluish tint of this gator's skin.
It's only slightly embarrassing to admit that I squeal every time I see a turtle.
This guy had such a splendid mohawk, I couldn't resist taking his portrait. If you're a birder, please help me identify the birds in these photos!
What is life if not a constant search for your next meal?
We saw so many alligators, we almost grew sick of seeing them. Almost.
I was shocked to see how many different kinds of birds we saw. I can't blame them, though. Florida is a fantastic place to stay in the winter.
Say hi to His Majesty, Kind Turt of the Everglades. That's what I imagine he's thinking of in this photo.
I remember reading that these birds don't have waterproof feathers, so, after each dive, they have to sit out in the sun with their wings outstretched to dry off.
What would you name this yoga pose? The Outstretched Turtle?
It's very possible that Sam is related to gators. After all, they both love to lounge in the sun for hours on end. Seems plausible to me.
Throughout the course of our first full day with Josh, we hiked around four trails, each fairly different from each other. We saw alligators, turtles, and birds of many shapes and colors. We even walked through a panther preserve.
But first, lunch! In the form of this massive avocado.
I mean, look at them. Frighteningly large.
Josh ran around and terrorized any lizard he found because he loved them so much. Can you see the little one in his hands?
This might have to be one of my favorite photos from this week. I'm just so in love with the clouds' reflection and how symmetrical that makes this shot.
To the left of the boardwalk is a Strangler Fig, a parasitic plant that does exactly what its name implies.
Naturally, I had to imitate the strangler fig to see what the big deal was.
It's been a while since I've tried my hand at macro plant photography. Did you know that's how I first got into photography? Crazy how far I've come since then :')
Sam fell in love with this Royal Palm Tree. He has a whole list of trees he's fond of, maybe I should get him to share that at some point.
Nature is so cool. Isn't it crazy that plants grow like this?
Although this mangrove is small, it'll eventually grow into it's own little island in the water. In doing so, it'll create shelter for all kinds of live both in and out of the water. That's just one reason why mangroves are so integral to the Everglades ecosystem.
I didn't notice the tiny little ant climbing up these colorful leaves until I was editing this photo. Just look at the little guy go! She definitely makes this shot a lot better.
Do not get me started on how beautifully colored these little berries are.
The mangrove arms stretch out to greet each other across the gap.
There are so many colors to love in this photo. Another favorite of mine :)
Ah yes, the famed 'Squatchling in his favored habitat.
I felt so lucky to be able to exist among such foreign ecosystems and experience them first hand. To know that my country is capable of supporting this kind of life? It’s a little hard to comprehend sometimes.
Even though the long drives could occasionally be tedious, we really got to see a side of Florida that not many tourists get to see. For one, there are so many farms. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised, since farming has been fairly ubiquitous in nearly every state we’ve visited so far. I’ve seen cows in nearly every state, but I never expected Florida would add to the tally.
I read something during one of our hikes that has stuck with me ever since; the Homestead Act of 1862 encouraged drastic alterations to Florida’s ecosystems that we still feel today. To give a little background, this act opened up millions of acres of land for prospective settlers to live and make a living. The catch? The land had to be used for farming and agriculture. In doing this, the government sought to give the land more value. Of course, we now know that sentiment was misguided at best (National Park Service).
Each state affected by the Homestead Act underwent its own difficulties. In the case of Florida, intricate drainage systems and canals needed to be constructed in order to make the ground workable. Remember, most of Southern Florida, before the Homestead Act, was freshwater wetland. Without the natural flow and flooding of water throughout the year, thousands of acres of land were transformed very quickly. The value of this ecological resource was not entirely understood at the time. Thankfully, that’s beginning to change. According to the National Wildlife Federation, “the Everglades ecosystem provides drinking water for one-third of Floridians and irrigation for much of the state's agriculture. The wetlands improve water quality by filtering out pollutants and absorbing excess nutrients, replenish aquifers, and reduce flooding.” Sure, restoring the Everglades will help the plants and animals of the region, but there are so many more reasons to support protection. Humans, whether we realize it or not, heavily depend on the environments we live within. The Everglades is just one of many examples of this.
No matter where you live, the restoration of key ecosystems in your state can directly benefit you and your loved ones. If you are in a position to donate time or money, I encourage you to research similar projects local to you.
You’ll have to excuse my mini-rant about conservation. I tried and tried to write purely about our experiences in this beautiful state, but I felt as if I was doing a disservice to myself if I didn’t mention this. As the Climate Crisis develops, it becomes easier and easier to lose hope or, worse, live in denial. However, I’m a painfully optimistic person, and I hope to share solutions along with the problems. If you have any comments about this, I’d love to discuss this topic more in depth with you.
Now, let’s get back to the fun part.
Thanks to Josh, Sam and I get to have some great pictures of us doing our Gap Year Thang.
Biscayne National Park
I actually had no idea that Biscayne National Park existed until Sam put it onto our itinerary. Josh was in the same boat, as I’m sure you are, too. Unless, of course, you did know about this hidden gem just outside of Miami, in which case I applaud you.
In any case, Biscayne Bay is 99% beneath the water, which makes the park incredibly unique when compared with others. Coral reefs teem with life, shipwrecks become home for numerous creatures, it’s all very cool.
My parents, avid scuba divers with whimsical tales of the magical places like Great Barrier Reef, encouraged me from a young age to dive with them. After getting certified, they took me to many a tropical place to explore the treasures of underwater ecosystems. As a result, I’ve seen so many mind boggling moments underneath the water, and I will be forever grateful for the priveledge of having that experience.
So, will all that scuba knowledge under my belt, how the heck did I not know about the coral reefs in my own backyard? I always thought you had to take seven hour flights, battle with bad layovers, and stay in foreign countries in order to reach the beauty of coral.
Who knew we just needed to go to Florida?
Needless to say, the three of us were beyond pumped to get our fins wet and snorkel.
The anticipation was made slightly worse by the cold wind as we took a boat to our first stop in the bay. Our guide did an excellent job educating us about the park. He even made sure to introduce himself to each passenger, allowing us to feel more at ease with each other. Even if I wasn’t the one talking, it was nice listening to what other people had to say.
I love it when our guides share all the information I never would have known otherwise.
When we finally got to the Mandalay Shipwreck, our first site of the day, I could hardly believe it was finally time to jump into the water. After turning the engine off, the captain sat back and cracked open a soda. For him, watching people excitedly flop around in the salt water was just another day in the life.
Hesitantly, I put on my gear, took one look around, and plopped into the water. You know how much I hate cold water, and, even though I was told it shouldn’t be too bad, I was skeptical. Usually I complain and scream when dunked in the icy cold, but this water was pleasant. I wouldn’t call it warm, but it wasn’t cold either.
When I look back on our time in the water, I find it hard to remember everything chronologically. So, instead of hurting my brain and attempting to walk you through what we did step-by-step, I would like to share a few of my favorite overall moments.
We saw lobster, all different kinds of colorful coral, and plenty of oddly patterned fish.
I discovered an underwater plaque memorializing the Mandalay wreck.
The boys, each with a GoPro in hand, were having a blast while recording the life around them.
Sam lost himself in a school of fish.
I had fun holding my breath and diving down to peer into each and every crack I could find. There will almost always be a lobster hiding under said crevice.
I had even more fun watching the boys try their hardest to do the same and dive deeper.
Our favorite moment from the first site had to be within the last five minutes before we had to go. Every other passenger was on the boat waiting for us to finish up. We weren’t quite ready, though, and the three of us decided to hang out around the shipwreck a little longer. During those last few minutes, Eagle-Eye Sam spotted a lonesome shark relaxing underneath the ship. I have no idea if she just got there or had been there the whole time, but we were the only ones who saw her. What a good omen.
Oh, and we saw a pod of dolphins riding our wake as we boated between sites. I mean, c’mon! How perfect of a day could this be?
Our next site was just as exciting as the first, but, for some reason, I have an even harder time remembering the moments from our time there.
I don’t mean to sound pretentious, but it’s so easy to lose yourself amid the coral, fish, and seagrass. The feeling of being a visitor is no more clear than when you’re swimming in the middle of a reef. To see coral up close, to see this huge mass of polyps and understand that this being is not a plant but an animal; to know that this animal is the backbone to some of the most biodiverse areas on the planet, and to know that the loss of coral would be a devastating blow to human and non-human alike . . . well, it can all be a little overwhelming.
Don’t worry, I won’t go on yet another rant about depressing things about coral bleaching and reef collapse. I do, however, want to give the topic some room to breathe. If you find yourself wanting to learn more about what coral is and why it’s so weird and important, I’d love for you to listen to this episode of the podcast Ologies. The host is fun and asks a scientist who researches coral all about the questions you might have about these wacky creatures.
I also want to encourage anyone who is itching to travel to an exotic place to consider visiting Biscayne National Park. Our snorkel trip within the park may have been more expensive than other trips just outside of the park, but most of the money we spent will fund research that investigates coral bleaching and how to mitigate damages within a changing climate.
A vacation that keeps money in the US, supports climate research, AND is fun as heck?
How can you not be sold?
Nothing beats a cold shower to wash off all the salt water from your sticky body.
Everglades National Park, Part II
The next day we finally got to glide in the water through the mangroves.
Did I say glide? I meant we vigorously paddled through the water, bouncing from side to side.
We got to see some spectacular views, though.
We definitely bonded in that metal canoe. I love those boys, even though they laughed when I was launched into a spider-infested mangrove branch.
After all that hard work in the sun, we couldn't resist the temptation of sweet, sweet ice cream. My cone was melting fast, and I panicked. Please don't judge my focus face too hard, I had a job to do.
We got into the habit of stuffing the three of us into the Teardrop every night to watch a show called "I Shouldn’t Be Alive." It was fun getting Josh to experience the luxury of the teardrop’s interior, even if he didn’t get to sleep in it with us.
As our last day with Josh came to a close, I had an idea.
I asked Josh to write about his experience traveling with us. I thought it might be nice to hear about our adventures from other people. I also thought it might be nice to have someone else do the writing for once.
It's been a while since I’ve seen these two incredible humans and what a treat it was. I hopped in the new Jeep and we sped straight towards the grocery store to pick up our food for the next few days. Classically we had a hard time deciding what we all wanted to eat and pissed off the grocery store clerk for having loose vegetables and fruit. But, hey, I still think we did a good thing by trying to contribute the least amount of plastic that will inevitably be thrown away. We woke up at five o’clock most mornings to drive three hours around the Everglades. The conversations and true crime podcasts were most welcomed. Throughout the whole trip we had a blast discussing the most outlandish ideas and attempting to tackle the climate crisis. At night we sat on chairs and a box around a campfire listening to the podcast This Is Love, eating delicious meals, hiking on boardwalks and trails, appreciating the vast amounts of wildlife, and trying to rent a kayak from a hotel where the shop keeper spoke a different colloquial form of English. These are all treasured memories that will last. The gem of the whole trip was Biscayne National Park. To be able to snorkel and to see what beauty there is beneath the Florida waters, it was humbling and heart wrenching to hear and see the vast amounts of bleaching that have been occurring. It is hard to wrap your mind around what this beautiful area looked like just 20 years ago.
I couldn’t have asked for a more fun and incredible experience in Florida. 5/5 review on Yelp. I would like to thank Sam and Kes for the incredible trip, amazing food, spectacular wildlife, and countless laughs.
Love you both.
We love you, too, Josh. Thank you for taking time to see us on the road and make memories we'll never forget.
Dry Tortugas National Park
Another early morning was spent taking Josh to the airport. We said our goodbyes, only slightly jealous that a hot shower was in his future.
Sam and I spent the rest of the drive back to camp in relative silence, exhausted from the past few days’ activities. That, as I soon learned, was nothing compared to what the rest of the day had in store for us.
You see, camping in the Dry Tortugas isn’t like normal backpacking.
For three days, we would be camping on an island with no fresh water and where no gas stoves were allowed. We had to pack everything we would need for those three days, cook three meals ahead of time, and make sure everything was ready to go when we left at two o’clock the next morning. That doesn’t sound like a lot, but we were running around on our feet until dark.
I don't recommend cooking three meals after each other. It's even worse when you can't eat any of them yet.
I’m the unofficial “early morning” driver, so I let Sam catch up on some Z’s as we drove down to the Florida Keys. I only wish I could have made the drive during daylight hours so I could see further than the road. Let me tell you, it is a weird feeling when you know you’re driving over the ocean, yet you can only see blackness to either side of you.
Even when we finally reached the ferry office, there was still a lot to do. We had to unpack, have our bags checked, pick up our kayaks, check in, park the car. The obstacles felt never ending, and the sleep deprivation certainly didn’t help.
Speaking of the kayaks, I want to take a moment to talk about the woman we rented them from. I swear, Tracy is the kind of person you wish you could be. She exuded an energy like sunlight in a bottle: her laugh was loud, her words witty, but above all else she was kind. Her seriousness in educating us about sea kayaking was quickly followed by jokes and teasing. There was just something about her that made you want to be best friends with her.
Tracy showed me where to park the Jeep while we were gone. To my horror, the only way to get in was to parallel park. Sure, I know how to do it in theory, but Sam’s just so good at it that I’ve never had to practice. Well, let’s just say I did my best.
Let’s also please forget that my best wasn’t good enough . . . Tracy may have had to parallel park the Jeep for me.
That woman is truly an angel.
The two and a half hour ferry ride to the island was spent sleeping. Or at least I slept, I’m not sure what Sam did.
When Fort Jefferson popped above the horizon, there was an air of excitement on the boat. Each passenger collectively had the same thought: We’re finally here!
Our first peek at what lay ahead.
As all other passengers left the boat to explore the many wonders of the island, we campers had to stay back to talk with the Ranger. He told us basic rules, tips, and other things of note. The entire time he was talking, Sam and I were all but bouncing up and down in our seats, ready to run off the boat and grab a campsite.
When we were finally released, we booked it to the campsites and tried to snag the best one. I think we did pretty good if I do say so myself.
There were so many parts of the island to explore, Sam’s eyes were large and hungry for adventure. I, on the other hand, was hungry for food. My sleep deprivation unfortunately gave me a small case of tunnel vision. Thoughts of the papaya we brought filled every corner of my mind. Thankfully, Sam didn’t need much convincing.
With a belly full of the best papaya I’ve ever eaten in my life, Sam and I decided to jump into the water and try snorkeling for a while.
Unlike Biscayne, where we had to take a boat to reach the coral reefs, all we needed to do was get into the water. Our campsite was mere feet away from the largest beach on the island, so all we had to do was walk in, put on our gear, and go.
Surrounding Fort Jefferson is a moat made of brick. As we slowly swam our way around the exterior wall, we saw coral growing on the brick, sometimes even matching the pattern of the bricks themselves. There was a section of wall that broke during a hurricane a few years ago which had to be my favorite part of the wall to explore. The broken bricks and concrete created many different types of shelter for fish to live under.
Life was blossoming all around this manmade structure. I like to think of that experience as another good omen.
When the waves became a little too rough, we reluctantly made our way back, but slowly. I enjoyed swimming towards the beach and relaxing, only looking down and nowhere else as I went. I was noticing all the old and dead coral that was breaking into smaller and smaller pieces the closer I got to the beach. Most notably, I was looking at all the different types of seagrass and algae underneath me. One clump of grass caught my eye in particular, so I stopped to take a closer look.
I screamed at Sam through my snorkel, though it sounded more like a turkey call than his name. That was no clump of seagrass. It was an octopus!
Drying off was a wonderful experience. Although our hair felt gross and sticky, the sea salt did wonders. As the sun tanned our skins and the wind blew our hair into styles that rivaled those of the movie stars, Sam and I left the ocean to explore Fort Jefferson.
Since I haven’t actually explained why there’s a huge brick fort standing atop this distant island, allow me to give a little back story.
Fort Jefferson was constructed in the early 1800s after the war of 1812 when America was fortifying its coasts. Slaves made up 20% of the work force and worked alongside prisoners to build the fort. Fort Jefferson was also controlled by the Union during the Civil War. These are just a few of the interesting facts we learned about this building while wandering within its skeleton.
When we decided to explore the fort, the ferry left with the day trippers, leaving us with only a handful of others to share the island with. Having such an old place to yourself was amazing, yet slightly eerie.
There were sooooo many windows that perfectly framed the ocean scenes outside.
This is another one of my favorites this week!
Fun Fact: The workers used coral quarried from the island to fill in the floors. When water splashes on the structure from the ocean or sky, the water will take the calcium carbonate from the coral and deposit it into these stalactite formations, just like a cave. Isn't that so cool??
On our way back we found this little hermit crab crossing the bridge. Nothing good awaited him on the other side, so we kindly set him where he'd have a better shot not getting crushed.
After exploring most of Fort Jefferson, we decided to take advantage of the sun’s warm rays before they sank behind the horizon. Sam read The Host, one of my absolute favorite books, while I tried to take a nap.
The sunset that night was a spectacular hot pink. Most of the campers sat on the wall or the beach to enjoy the colors. I would have gotten a photo if we were one of those campers.
Instead, we decided to do some dusk snorkeling.
I’ve gone night diving before, so I carried a lot of confidence into the water as we got ready. Of course, the area we chose to explore in the dark was probably one of the most terrifying places to explore with just a cruddy, dim dive light.
Night diving and snorkeling can be a wonderful experience, but swimming in such a confined area with waves pushing you all around was starting to freak me out. To my relief, we didn't stay there too long.
Despite all the spookiness of the ocean after dark, we did get to see some really cool things. Sea urchins, both black and red, slowly crept out from their hidey holes. Thousands of tiny snails marched in what I can only think of as a parade, their tiny bodies swarming over rocks and coral alike. In a cloud of murky water, Sam says he caught a glimpse of a ray’s barb, while I only got flashes of Steven Erwin’s face. Maybe that’s the source of my unease.
Eventually, we left the water for the wall to dry off before bed. On the horizon, a boat with insanely bright lights was darting back and forth in the channel. It took me a while to understand that it was fishing or shrimping. I was much more captivated by the birds flying ahead of the vessel, using the light to catch either fish or bait.
Absolutely mind boggling.
I don’t think I’ve ever slept so hard while tent camping before. Waking up with the sun, I felt like an entirely new person. Getting out of bed was also surprisingly easy, but I have our breakfast to thank for that: cold brew coffee with a cream cheese and lox bagel sandwich. Sam and I ate on the wall and enjoyed each other’s company.
If I had all the time in the world, I would have stayed there for hours. Unfortunately, time kept ticking and we had a big day ahead of us.
Today was the day we were going to kayak across the channel to Loggerhead Key.
Another omen presented itself to us in the form of a barracuda that morning.
There was chatter among the snorkelers that there was a huge fish hanging out around the beach. Low and behold, we were looking at him. Cool.
We turned to leave for camp when I saw the barracuda chase a fish around the shallow beach. Shocked, I couldn’t do anything other than stare at the scene in front of me. The fish jumped out of the water as a last resort for escape, but not without getting a huge bite taken out of him. The fish managed to get away and hid in the shallowest part of the water where the barracuda couldn’t get to him. We waited for as long as we could to see who would emerge victorious from this battle of life and death. Unfortunately, we had to leave before we got any answers.
Sam likes to think the fish got away. I like to think the barracuda didn’t go hungry.
I knew the trek out the Loggerhead would be difficult. Sam and I have never sea kayaked before, yet we were about to paddle three miles across a channel. It’s been done before, but not by us. To make matters worse, the last I Shouldn’t Be Alive we watched with Josh showcased the possible horrors one can face when everything goes wrong while sea kayaking. That was some fun food for thought.
As soon as our paddles hit the water, I had no choice but to let my anxieties drift out to sea. The waves were choppy, and I had to focus on keeping the boat at the best angle to prevent them from slamming into us. There were a few moments where I had the opportunity to let panic in, but I refused to think about anything than my next stroke.
If the way I’m describing this seems intense, that’s because it really was. With Sam sitting behind me, we fell into a good rhythm and did our best to glide towards the distant island of Loggerhead.
An hour later, we finally reached the shores of Loggerhead Key.
My arms felt like tubes of jelly, but I was proud of us for actually surviving.
After safely docking the kayak, Sam and I took a quick look around the beach and saw . . . absolutely no one. The knowledge that you two are the only people on this island, well, it’s a hard feeling to describe. There’s no pressure to leave, no feeling that you’re in someone else’s way. You two can do whatever you want, all by yourselves. This experience will be yours and yours alone. That's what we came here for.
Before any true adventuring could start, I insisted on a mandatory refuel. I grabbed the snacks we stashed in the dry bag and sat across from Sam in the kayak. I could tell he was itching to take the snorkel gear and run, so I was thankful he agreed to our little pitstop.
The main reason we came to Loggerhead was to snorkel an area of reef called Little Africa. We took a while to find it, distracted by all the life we saw around us. Outcroppings of coral popped out everywhere, taking on so many different shapes. My favorite coral had to be the big brain corals for obvious reasons. I’m a simple girl, after all. You name something after the brain? I’ll love it.
When we finally stumbled upon Little Africa, we were amazed at how large this wall of coral was. The tides were too low to swim above without hurting ourselves or the coral, so we decided to swim the perimeter. There were countless species of fish swimming around in this underwater metropolis, all of various patterns and colors. One that still sticks out to me had a turquoise undertone with an orange Turing pattern on top. He was fabulous.
I can't wait to snag more pictures from the GoPro!
Remember the last omen I talked about, the barracuda? Well, he wasn’t the only big boy we saw that day. The entire time Sam and I swam around the edge of Little Africa, we were followed by barracudas. One turned to three turned to seven. At one point, I counted thirteen right in front of me, ignoring any others on the other side of the reef. I knew they wouldn’t attack, but their bulbous eyes were unsettling. No matter what angle you were at, they always seemed to be looking directly at you, sizing you up to see if you’d be worth the effort.
I am thankful for them, in a weird way.
They helped me get out of the water without being too sad to leave.
The weather was much better by the time we decided to leave Loggerhead. We were sad to go, but we knew the way back would be hard enough without wasting the weather window we had.
In a stroke of luck, the way back to Garden key and Fort Jefferson was actually easier. By the time we reached the beaches, only an hour had passed. I would like to thank the food we were about to eat for our speedy return. If it weren’t for the thought of that amazing lunch we would have taken an extra hour getting back.
Before we could stuff our faces, we needed to make sure we’d be eating in the right setting. With a beach umbrella dutifully blocking the worst of the sun’s heat, we laid our towels beneath the shade. One satisfied sigh later, and the two of us were lounging in absolute comfort.
Our lunch featured one of the most expensive yet dangerously delicious charcuterie boards I’ve ever had the pleasure of feasting on. Kalamata olives. Cured salami. Aged gouda. Wheat crackers. And, most importantly, a margarita we prepared ahead of time for this very moment.
I couldn’t tell you how long we spent underneath the umbrella in that moment.
All I know is that I was in my happiest of places with a person I’ll never get bored with.
By the time we emerged from our cocoon, the sun was low enough in the sky to warrant taking down the umbrella. To kill some time before sunset, we explored more of the fort. We were surprised by all the people working on restorations. There had to be at least ten to twenty workers doing a dozen different tasks. I wonder how they liked living on the island.
Finally, after we were satisfied with our fort crawlings, it was time to explore a new part of the island. I was looking forward to walking this way ever since we stepped off the ferry. Thanks to currents and hurricanes, Garden Key was connected by a sandbar to Bush Key. I heard that you could find some cool conch shells washed up there, too. I was practically jumping up and down in excitement when we finally left towards the beach.
The key past Bush Key was fascinating to watch as we got closer to it. Birds were constantly flying above the canopies of trees and bushes, swinging in and out of the forest-mass. As much as I would love to explore that island, we weren’t allowed to visit it. The key is unfortunately closed year-round in order to protect sea birds nesting grounds. Nonetheless, I enjoyed fantasizing about what the birds were seeing as Sam and I walked further along the beach.
“Shark!” Sam yelled, shocking me out of my fantasy. Sure enough, we saw the dorsal and tail fins of a small shark chase something onto the beach. The shark slowly slunk back into the water, giving up on his meal. Confused, Sam and I got closer to see what he was trying to eat. A horseshoe crab? A flounder?
A sea turtle!
Oh my goodness, let me tell you, I was absolutely mind blown. Not only did we get to see a sea turtle in the Dry Tortugas, but we got to see one narrowly escape death. Talk about a great walk.
Right before we got to the end of Bush Key, Sam stopped and said he wanted to take a video of us. He’d been taking videos of little moments during our days here at the Dry Tortugas, so I busied myself with taking some photos of my own as he get his shot ready. I knew the drill.
I went to investigate this tree as Sam fiddled with his GoPro. From a distance, I thought the conch snails were still in their shells and congregating here for no reason. Alas, no snails were found upon further inspection.
Finally ready, Sam called me back. He told me he wanted to get a video of us sharing a kiss in the sunset. Um, yes? The softie in me melted and eagerly waited for him to stand next to me.
Once he hit record and ran beside me, I smiled and went to plant a big ol’ smooch on his face. When I turned, he wasn’t where I expected him to be though. I looked down and . . . oh.
Wait, what?
Author's Note
I've been so excited to share this post with you so we could finally announce our engagement!
I thought it would be fun to throw the announcement right at the end of this post - I wanted you to be as clueless as I was until the moment Sam dropped down on one knee. So, if you haven't heard until now, don't fret. Nearly everyone in our lives is in the same boat.
If you'd like to share the news with someone, be my guest! All I ask is that you consider sending them this post when you tell them. I care less about the "traffic" and more about sharing our news in a way that's special. After all, this is a pretty momentous occasion for Sam and I.
My next post will dive a little deeper into our love story, so I hope you don't mind the slight digression from our usual weekly updates. Don't worry, there will still be plenty adventures thrown in the mix, too.
I just really want to give myself the room to digest the fact that I'm engaged to my best friend!
I'm so happy.
Oops, I almost forgot a picture of us with the ring. I may or may not have taken this picture seconds before posting.
Housekeeping
If you’re new to my page, welcome!
If not, then it’s really nice to see you again :)
As always, I’d love to hear which photos are your favorites. I always look forward to hearing about which ones catch your eye!
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Without further ado, I hope you have a wonderful rest of your day.
Best,
Kes the Photobean
So, I may have read this blog and watched that last video more than a few times...when you see and feel the joy represented here, it's kind of addictive. These are some of my favorite pictures of you and Sam. I don't think I've ever seen him smile so big. And, the ring looks perfect on you. I'm one proud momma and future mother-in-law! Congratulations, and Kes, welcome to the family!
Awesome awesome!!! The whole Florida Keys journey was wonderful, but that bottom line was a kicker. Congratulations on making this terrific decision. It seems so right. The ring is as beautiful and appropriate as your togetherness.
It was amazing to hear you discuss the Homestead Act and it’s ramifications for a place so different from the rest of the states. I had the privilege of knowing a woman, who when in her 20s, got a homestead in Wyoming as I recall, by herself! She was small and pretty, not what I would have imagined, but she did all the work. And survived.
There is appreciation in me for the courage you young people have, studying up on climate change, the…
Congratulations!!!! So much fun yet to come this year and forever!
And I had never heard of two of these parks which are now on my list.
The photo in the dark water looking towards the lighthouse on shore terrifies me. The photos of the fort amaze me. And the photo of Sam and Josh prepping a meal by the teardrop is my favorite because once again it shows just how great this experience is for you (and your friends who join)
So many good photos this week it's hard to choose! My favorite has to be Joshua Squanching around in the grass. Looks like it was an awesome couple of weeks for you guys 😄